Wine Club: STICK IT
October is an unparalleled delight in Vermont. But for the heaven of foliage season we must also suffer the hell of what it brings; insane traffic, endless crowds, idiotic tourists, and closed waitlists at our favorite bars and restaurants. (Sorry to everyone who wanted to come to Cork, we miss you!) So to celebrate the wonder of the season, and to STICK IT to all the annoying b.s. we’ve dealt with all autumn, Cork presents the ideal pack for welcoming the bare limbs and cloudy days of November and saying goodbye to everyone who isn’t down with the stick-ness. We’re focusing on wines that evoke the calm of this time of year, the particular quality of light in early “winter” and the bramble and brush of crisping vines and crunching leaves. Cheers, Crushers!
Kuentz-Bas, Alsace, France
Riesling
The Alsace region of Eastern France is a storybook landscape; steep terraced vineyards, grand canals and cathedrals, gingerbread houses and soaring peaks create an almost mystical aura in the land known for chateaux, muenster, asparagus, and delicious, delicious riesling. And really, November is the perfect month to consider the unique eonological processes that Alsace affords a grower. With the most sunshine hours in this chillier north-eastern part of the country, and protected from the rains of their soggy neighbor Lorraine via the guardianship of the Vosges mountain range, Alsatian grapes are often some of the longest-hanging fruit on vine seen in the wine world. Harvesting well into November is no rare phenomenon in these parts, and the slow ripening of noble varietals imparts incredible complexity, depth, minerality, focus, and concentration of fruit into their resultant wines. From this storied land comes the family and winemaking tradition of Kuentz-Bas, an estate which dates back centuries. The wines of Kuentz-Bas have always been focused on terroir, and expressing the incredible versatility and voice of Alsace. Always with an eye to the everyday drinker, vingeron Jean-Baptise Adam crafts cuvees which are equally authoritative and accessible. This riesling, for example, is a racy, clean, stylish interpretation of the grape, known for its impeccably balanced fruit and acidity. Biodynamically farmed, minimal intervention, classic and scrumptious. Drink on a rare sunny afternoon.
Domaine de l’Oubliee ‘Merci La Vie,’ Loire, France
Cabernet Franc
Oh boy, it’s Bourgueil! (It rhymes.) There is perhaps no wine more evocative of autumnal bliss than Loire Valley cabernet franc. This bottling shows classic characteristics of the varietal,with rounded notes of green peppercorn, herb-laden red fruits, and earthy and rustic cranberry and cherry. Hailing from the 4 hectare of biodynamically farmed vineyards of Saint Patrice in the commune of Bourgeuil, the wines of Domaine de l’Oubliee are far from forgettable. Aged in cement with no additions of preservatives, this is pure Cab Franc at its friendliest. An easy weeknight companion, with enough finesse to serve proudly alongside turkey on perhaps a particular Thursday that falls in November. We leave it up to you to decide.
RAW CLUB
This month’s selections focus on classics of the French portfolio. Through it all, there are certain wines that time and again deserve their place in the pantheon of greats. We feel that Chablis and Gigondas belong not to past generations, but to modern wine drinkers who yearn for clean, expressive, rewarding wines which showcase terroir with a unique precision and which carry a pronounced identity. These are “to be consumed with great pride” wines, and, coincidentally, really, REALLY good to share with friends for Thanksgiving.
Lillian Duplessis ‘Chablis,’ Burgundy, France
Chardonnay
I just love Chablis. I still remember taking the blind-tasting portion of the sommelier exam and encountering a room temperature Chablis Premier Cru---and super whiffing on ID’ing it---but being pleased nonetheless to realize what versatility and depth wines of the region express. The contrast of minerality and brightness with well-concentrated fruit and body make Chablis a welcoming introduction to the Chardonnays of Burgundy, possessing all the finesse of the region without too much of that pesky little thing called “oak” or buttery notes from malolactic fermentation. Also, Chablis tends to be a touch more accessible in terms of price. Really, with its cooler weather, satellite-distance from the rest of Burgundy, and low-to-no use of new oak,Chablis is a distinct winemaking region of its own. Such distinction and abstraction created a great deal of confusion for U.S. consumers in the 70’s and 80’s, when the term “chablis” was used with great abandon by California winemakers marketing their dry, medium-bodied white wines based around chardonnay. A report from a 1989 article in the Chicago Tribune makes reference to the resulting confusion. “A cartoon...commented upon the situation: A very surprised woman looks at the retailer who had just sold her a bottle of the real McCoy and says, ''I didn`t know the French made chablis, too!''
While these days, U.S. producers don’t borrow names at random from protected designated areas of origin (mostly...lookin’ at you Gallo Wines jug o’ “Burgundy”) but the stank around the confusion permeates to the market today. But, time heals all, and Chablis is enjoying its own resurgence among drinkers who have always enjoyed this unique little appellation’s wines.
Lilian Duplessis is the latest vigneron in a line of 5 generations of winemakers, working 8 hectare under vine in Chablis. The Duplessis holdings are some of the only organic-certified vineyards in the region, planted on kimmeridgian clay and limestone. Their age-worthy chardonnays define the class and precision of the region’s terroir, and exude tight minerality alongside creamy texture to foster a balance between exuberance and restraint. Enjoy now, or put it down for a few years...if you can wait that long.
Domaine de Durban ‘Gigondas,’ Rhône, France
Grenache, Syrah
The Southern Rhone is a region in France which is as known for its value-driven red blends as its protected designated products of extremely high quality and value. Did you know Chateauneuf-du-Pape was the FIRST AOC in France? Without it, we may not have Champagne from Champagne, Bordeaux from Bordeaux, etc etc. The entire idea of a product deriving value from its protected status due to a place of origin was developed in the South-Eastern province of France yet its wines often fall short of cult status. Alas, this is perhaps a good thing. Wine drinkers seeking bold, fuller-bodied reds with age-worthy structure and terroir-driven winemaking should look to the Rhone for their reds. Among these, the wines of Vaucluse and the Beaumes-de-Venice region take the cake for their old-school methodology running alongside modern interpretations of crushable, ready-to-drink reds which pair perfectly with cool-season roast veg and meats. Value is important when looking to invest in a place, and Gigondas is a region I always associate with big results for moderately low price tags. The wines of Domaine de Durban exemplify this perfectly. Located at one of the highest elevations in the area abutting Beaumes-de-Venice, the Leydier family farm 55 hectare of low-yeilding old vine varietals. Cool air and stony soils create their remarkably consistent cuvees of singular power and finesse. Their methods focus on flavor and freshness, not alcohol content, fostering winemaking which prioritizes terroir over booziness. Their Gigondas, a 70/30 blend of grenache and syrah (the absolute classic combo) is destemmed, aged in stainless steel, and agitated with gentle pour-overs during maceration/fermentation twice daily to extract the subtle tannins and earthy body of their grapes while preserving the integrity and brightness of the fruit. Aged in cement, unfiltered and unfined, this wine is a stunning achievement from the Leydier family and a beautiful, bountiful, rich, ripe, and ready example of why the southern Rhone is a place where we can find wines that raise our spirits and keep us warm all winter long.