Wine Club: Der Grüner Spot

            Hallo, meine Süße, it is time again we travel to the original inspiration of Cork’s inception: Crushing Austrian Wine. Apres-all-day and sun-bathing in Sölden originally inspired our owner to start pouring approachable alpine wines for local friends and neighbors. And, as its been 10 years since Cork opened its doors, the time is right to revisit some favorites, and show how far we’ve come as Vermont’s first all-natural wine shop and restaurant. Away to Austria we go!

Zeit ‘Orange’ Gruner Veltliner, Wagram, Austria

It’s wine o’clock’! There’s no time like Gruner time- and Cork has always been Der Grüner Spot. As an update on the classic varietal, known for its peppery, stone-fruity notes and perfect schnitzel pairing, winemaker Karl Fritsch macerates his grape juice with their skins to create a cuvee of greater depth, texture, grip and aromatics. In 2006, Karl converted his family’s historical holdings in Neiderrosterich to 100% biodynamic farming, with a philosophy of balance and restoration that creates the best possible wine. After hand-harvesting his gruner, Fritsch and company macerate the grape + skins for 14 days and then press the mix and let it spontaneously ferment in large old oak barrels. The final product is unfined, unfiltered, and all flavor. Try it with a classic sausage and pickle plate or enjoy your own (mushroom) hunter’s feast this autumn with a rich pan sauce over egg noodles.

Gober & Feinbichler ‘Vineyard Project 004’ Blaufränkisch, Burgenland, Austria

We have a lot of wonderful examples of wines that have come together because some folks decide to collaborate and create a bottling that harnesses their respective talents and skills. I’m reminded of Las Jaras wines, the Cellar Communicas (remember Pep And Patri?) and the 3UEI and Ampeleia wines from Italian superstars.  Two (or three) heads are better than one, and Vineyard Project proves this nicely with their friendly bottling of Blaufrankish. Domink Gober and Gerald Feinbichler met while working under the auspicious and celebrated roof of winemaker Franz Weniger, who convinced them to bring their working hands to an abandoned garage and vineyard site planted to Blaufrankisch. Their plan; restore balance to historical plantings and vineyards though careful management, ecological systems-thinking and traditional winemaking practices. This chummy red shows plenty of ripe red fruit, balanced with smoky spice and earthy backbone. This feels like friendship in a bottle- a convivial pour for any occasion and for almost all palates. Prost!

Raw Club

We continue our journey into Austria for Raw Club, taking a moment to cross the border into Germany and explore the incredible gifts of these sometimes-forgotten regions who make wines of such great distinction and expression as to make them worthy of and competitive on any world stage. For those who turn up their nose at “flabby” Austrian whites or “cheap” German reds, we have a strong argument here to convert even the most staunch Francophile or oenological snob. Again, we say, drink good wine. Wherever you find it.

Gut Oggau ‘Theodora’ Burgenland, Austria

Once upon a time in the village of Oggau in Austria’s famous winemaking region, Burgenland, a couple took upon a massively ambitious project. Eduard & Stefanie Tscheppe purchased a 17th century winery which had been extensively farmed using commercial pesticides and chemical treatments. By the time they set their hands to it in 2007, the previous owner had fortunately neglected the vines for long enough to wash away the residue of the past and allow them to start fresh- only with plenty of lopping, trellising and pruning to do before production could begin again. And begin it did, biodynamically, and with great success. The wines of Eduard and Stefanie show tremendous character- a realization they felt would best be represented by the now iconic line-drawn faces which adorn each new cuvee and vintage of their wines. Named and dedicated to family members new and old, the wines of Gut Oggau speak to a deep connection to place, heritage, tradition, and of course familial ties. When wines are family members, so to speak, they HAVE to be well-cared for and loved. The “oldest” vineyard sites bear the name of the grandparents, with their children, including Theodora, represent “younger” and more bold, upfront, energetic expressions of newer-planted terroir. Theodora is a skin-fermented co-ferment of Gruner Veltliner and Welschriesling. The wine is fermented in varying sizes of large wooden containers, and then aged on the lees (yeast bodies) for 9 months before bottling. No stirring, no filtration, no added s02.  

As pert and lively and likeable as the young lady (and prankster) from whom it takes its name.

Koehler-Ruprecht, Pinot Noir, Pfalz, Germany

 The historic estate of Koehler-Ruprecht is perhaps best known for its searingly focused, elegant and age-worthy Rieslings. And no doubt, those wines are simply incredible. But a true vigneronne such as Franziska Schmitt knows that versatility is key in expressing the full range of a region’s terroir. And while it may raise eyebrows to see a famous white-wine estate dabbling in reds, the truth is, the south-west corner of Germany boasts some of the most delicious, complex, Burgundy-rivalling pinot noir bottlings in the world. I would almost always prefer a pinot from Pfalz or Baden over Oregon or France. For value alone, it is worth exploring this region. When we do, we find Koehler-Ruprecht’s pinot, made from the stony, rocky soils of Steinaker (Stone acre), a 750-year old planting site, praised for its limestone bedrock (the KEY, many say, to good pinot. ) The grapes here are hand-harvested from dry-farmed plantings, de-stemmed and fermented in stainless steel, and gently pressed and aged in large old oak barrels. This is a lighter, more rustic, fresh, and authentic style of pinot noir which showcases the delicate balance of fruit and minerality for which the varietal is loved. Well-integrated and smooth tannins give way to a juicy palate of bright acidity and freshly-crushed berries. Nothing gets in the way of the grape here- no chemicals, no additives, very little filtering or finishing methods used. Pure Pinot. Enjoy immediately. Enjoy in several years. Just, enjoy. And in future, consider getting your Pinot in Pfalz, your Burgundy in Baden.