March Madness
It’s the first week of March! The dark and dreary deep winter days are behind us, and the first day of spring is within reach! It may be muddy, and the constant March freeze-thaw cycle can prove exhausting (and dangerous- watch out for black ice people!), but I really feel a sense of renewal this time of year! An uptick in energy, creativity, and sense of purpose brought on by the lengthening sunlight inspire me to cook and surround myself with friends and laughs. That does not however, eliminate my cold weather induced craving for convenience!
Pasta and salad. A weeknight meal plan as old as time. A crowd pleasing and nutritionally balanced pair with endless flavor combinations! A simple aglio e olio, marinara, or a meaty bolognese have filled all of our plates at a time, and to me are the quintessential meals of comfort and convenience. But, because the March madness has hit (not to be confused with the NCAA basketball finals) I am ready to switch it up! To keep things fresh, warm and bursting with flavor, I am making a smoky ‘nduja campanelle, served with a leafy green salad dressed simply in oil and vinegar.
If you aren’t familiar with ‘nduja, let me introduce you. Hailing from Calabria, this spreadable salami-like pork product is spicy and rich. Like a lot of Italian food, ‘nduja is the result of reducing waste in food production, a lesson in conservation going back thousands of years. Traditionally, it is produced using the ends of cured pork like prosciutto, guanciale and speck that are then ground and flavored with calabrian chile to add its signature heat. Its high fat content and texture make it spreadable and ideal for melting into hot oil for pasta, dolloped onto a pizza, or served with crusty bread for a snack.
For this dish, my market shopping list is as follows: Underground Meats ‘Nduja, Bianco DiNapoli Fire-Roasted Chopped Tomatoes, Flour + Water Campanelle, Montemelino Extra Virgin Olive Oil, and Volpaia Aceto di Vino Bianco (white wine vinegar). If there is one thing you will take away from this week's newsletter, it’s this: The quality of your pantry items is deeply important! Each of the products in this week’s shopping list are chosen for their ethical and sustainable cultivation and dedication to the most authentic, highest quality, and in turn flavorsome end result. Both Bianco DiNapoli and Flour + Water are award winning chef-founded and operated brands, and as a chef myself, I trust them to help me bring the highest quality ingredients into my kitchen. You should too. As for oil and vinegar, the more you taste the more you know! We will do an olive oil deep dive soon, I promise! But for now I will apply the age old adage, “What grows together, goes together”. We are making an Italian inspired dish, so high quality Italian oil and vinegar will go well. As will- drum roll- Italian wine!
Yes finally, the part where I tell you about wine. Honestly, let’s not over complicate this one. Spicy smoky pasta dish, keep it Italian to reflect the influence of the dish, weeknight last minute energy- Montemelino ‘Malpasso’ Vino Rosso! A 100% sangiovese from Montemelino in Umbria, Italy. Yes! Montemelino! You read that right. The very same 60 hectare organic farm as the olive oil featured in this article. Coincidence? I think not. This red is fermented with native yeasts in cement tanks one year before bottling. This insures the profile will be an honest representation of the grape and region. It’s got big sour cherry and raspberry notes, crunchy, fresh, light but vibrant tannins, and is available in a one litre format- perfect for a bad case of the March Monday’s or a Saturday night dinner soiree! The red fruit and herbaceous quality will pair well with the fatty, savoriness of the pasta dish. My challenge for you for this wine is to play a game. Give the wine a proper taste, and then do the same with the olive oil. What similarities do you notice? Can you identify influences of the clay and limestone soils in each product? Can you taste the herbaceous grape leaves in the olive oil, or the buttery, spicy olive in the wine?
For the pasta- boil (AND SALT) your water and cook the pasta until just under al dente, reserving about ½ cup of pasta water. In a large saute pan or cast iron dutch oven (think enough room for sauce and pasta) over medium-low heat, saute ‘nduja in some olive oil until the oil and paste melt together, protein gets crispy, and oil takes on the orange color of the chile in the nduja. Add a few cloves of garlic sliced thin and stir until the garlic softens. If you have some white wine on hand, use about ½ cup to deglaze the pan and then add the roasted tomatoes. Allow this to simmer for at least 20 mins over low heat, stirring occasionally until the tomatoes begin to break down further and the sauce comes together, seasoning as needed. Add the pasta and reserved pasta water, stir and cook until pasta reaches desired doneness, plate, and serve. Fresh italian parsley, a drizzle of olive oil, and a mountain of pecorino are welcome additions to the serving platter. For the salad, add directly to your favorite greens a splash of white wine vinegar, THEN olive oil, (trust me here, order of operations is important) salt, and a generous crack of black pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning (remember- you can add, you can’t take away). The fatty, spicy, rich pasta will be a fair compliment to a light green salad. I like to add things like shaved fennel, pecorino, toasted pine nuts, or white beans to my salads to make them more a star of the meal. But do you! Get creative! That’s what cooking is all about!
Glasses are full, plates are empty- Let’s toast to a new month, a new season, and to new perspective! Cheers!
A Note On Pasta: To me, pasta shape is a very personal choice. Everyone has their favorites they return to at home, or prefer the shapes their Nonna made growing up. In Italy, there is an encyclopedia’s worth of rules about pasta and sauce combinations, mostly based on the influence of regionality (what grows, goes- remember?). Full transparency, I don’t always like to follow the rules! You might find yourself asking “Emma, why did you choose campanelle?” and the answer is mostly “Because I wanted to and I can, and despite the traditionality of pasta shape choice, I, as a chef and food lover, still maintain free-will.” In this case however, I chose this shape for a reason. Campanelle’s shape is described as a bell or flower- think sorting hat from Harry Potter, but with ruffled edges. Its cone-like shape and rough cut are perfect for catching any sauce it meets, especially those with some dense add-ins like meat or vegetables.