Wine Club: All things earth…

Greetings, Wine Clubbers! 

And welcome to MUD SEASON: EXTREME EDITION!

This month we’re exploring all things earthy, forest-floor, dirty, gritty, mineral, and muck-boot ready in the world of wine. It’s time to celebrate the scents and sensations of spring in places where winter likes to hold on as long as it can. April is for the none-too-easily fooled, who know that patience pays off. So don’t plant your starts in the ground just yet, but DO go puddle-jumpin and soak up all the good grime you can get while mud season is in full effect. And, if you’ve had to dig yourself out or abandon your mudbound and trapped vehicle on a rutted out back road, these wines will also be here for you to remind you, mud season won’t last forever. So here’s to hanging out while we’re all hanging on for spring.

Cheers!

CRUSH CLUB

Our Crush Club this month features wines from a singular producer of true distinction among the many famous names of the Loire. François Cazin had his work cut out for him in reaching such heights, when back in the day he was one of the first producers to showcase the wines coming from an unheard-of region. At the time, his wines alone managed to win the affection of Joe Dressner (of Louis/Dressner) who began importing François' wines from this brand-new appellation in France, Cheverny. In 2022, Cheverny is still just a “baby” as far as appellations go, having been born in 1993. This area, nestled far inland and south of the central Loire river valley, sits adjacent to the marshy hunting grounds of former French royalty. Here, heavy, clay-rich, murky soils are also replete with limestone and silica. Here is where Francois Cazin diligently tends his well-aged vines. He focuses on creating the most intensely focused wines possible from his very small yield of grapes. (The older the vine, the fewer the grapes it produces---but the higher the quality.) All of his winemaking is non-interventionist, even down to gravity-bottling his unfiltered wines. His cuvees showcase classic Loire valley varietals of such high quality you could be fooled into thinking they’re from a far more established (and expensive) appellation. So, if you enjoy Sancerre or Bourgueil, and are willing to venture a bit further down the river and into the heavy clay of Cheverny, you may be richly rewarded with some of the best value and most expressive, focused, and dynamic wines in the Loire. 

François Cazin 'Cheverny'
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay

    An 80/20 blend of Sauvignon blanc and Chardonnay, this white showcases signature lazer-cut minerality and spicy citrus tones, surrounding a palate of wet stone, rainfall, fresh cut flowers and gooseberry. Each parcel of grapes is direct-pressed and vinified blended and vinified in enamel-lined or stainless steel tanks before being blended to perfection at bottling. Malolactic fermentation ensures rough acidity is smoothed out to ensure a clean but malleable presentation on the palate. In other words, a refreshing and exuberant wine that won’t overpower your meal or your guests. Leave it on the porch overnight and serve on a 50-degree day. Tastes like an April shower.

François Cazin 'Cheverny'  Rouge
Gamay, Pinot Noir

A blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, grown from limestone-rich clay soils and showing crispy, juicy red berries along with crunchy leaf and wet loam, tied together with a lingering impression of snappy raspberry preserves. The Gamay is whole-cluster fermented while the pinot noir is de-stemmed, balancing woodsy structure with an approachable fruit-forward body. A combination of old barrels, concrete and enamel vessels are used for aging, showcasing the 25-year old vines’ depth of character. Careful winemaking ensures that this wine could stand a few years lying down in the cellar- but at a price that says, “go ahead, drink me any old time.” Try it with pan-fried rabbit loin. 

RAW CLUB

Giovanni Battista Mesina, "the shepherd that makes wine", as he is known to the locals, is about as legit as it gets when we talk about wine made by farmers, for farmers. Giovanni's started making wine formally in 2017 but before that was happily churning out vintages in his family's old animal stall with the bare essentials alone at hand. He had intuition, and of course, a not insignificant Sardinian cultural inheritance, to work with. The Mesina’s were a generations-deep family from Sardinia who transplanted themselves all the way up to North-Central Italy, in Umbria, where Giovanni grew up with the family business of raising sheep.  Now, Giovanni helps run an operation with more than 1000 sheep. His vineyard holdings…well, that’s just under 3 hectare, including some transplants of Sardinian varietals like Vermentino. Maybe you can see why he’s known first as a shepherd, second as a winemaker. BUT! Tasting his wines reveals that there is indeed nothing deficient or secondary at all in these humbly-presented bottlings. You’d assume his only focus is wine, given their incredible composition and almost magical ability to feel like trapped sunshine. And to think, he had to be convinced to start selling the stuff five years ago. Before that, it was just a hobby for friends and family to enjoy at home. Some people really know how to live.

Vini di Giovanni 'Il Vermentuzzo'
Vermentino

As promised- Sardinian wine…via Umbria. And Umbrian style really suits this stone-fruit and citrus-forward native grape of Sardinia. Giovanni allows two days of skin contact for the Vermentino before pressing off and aging in stainless steel. Of course, everything is farmed organically (think of the sheep!) and vinified without filtration or use of S02. Pure melon rind, haybale, and meyer lemon. Oh and DEFINITELY enjoy with some fresh ricotta or, if you can find it, sheep’s milk cheese like pecorino. 

Vini di Giovanni 'Il Chiaretto'
Vernaccia Rosso, Ciliegiolo

"Chiaretto" is a Sardinian specialty, a light, juicy, clean blend of high-acid varietals with bright red fruit notes. But, when you’re making it in Umbria, the grapes at hand are just a little different from those on the Island. The result is no less delicious and refreshing however. Here, Vernaccia Rossa meets a little Ciliegiolo (little cherries) to offer a clean, fresh, spicy wine that wants a little chill on it and a lot of charcuterie with it. Less than a thousand bottles are usually made, so this rare beast is best savored while it’s available. I think it’s got enough kick and punch to be a welcome addition to any Seder table or Easter Brunch.