Wine Club: Veneto is for lovers
Star cross’d and feuding families, borne of Shakepeare’s quill, hail from this region. So, too, do striped-shirted, crooning gondoliers, gliding tourists along canals. Here we find the hills of Soave, of Amarone, of Prosecco di Valdobbiadene. This is the Veneto. And the Veneto is for Lovers.
Celebrating this region of North-West Italy, which runs from the Dolomites down to the Adriatic Sea, is all about finding love. The producers we’re highlighting for February (and Valentine’s Day) are all dedicated to their labors and translating the passion for their land and their grapes into a distinct and pure expression. These are bottles to savor, to share on an intimate evening, or to treat yourself with in the dead of winter because, hey, self-love is important, too. And a wine is best, truly, when it’s a labor of love.
Monte dall’Ora Vino Nato “Disobbediente Resistente Contadino” Corvina blend
Carlo Venturini and Allesandra Zantadeschi refer to the forests and fields around their vineyard site in the Valpolicella Classico zone as “the lungs of Monte dall’Ora.” It is with this appreciation of the ecological services provided by their natural landscape, with a keen eye towards building soil health through micronutrient-holding and carbon-sequestering practices, and an interest in bringing fresh, authentic, light, and delicious reds to balance out the notably heavy portfolio of their region (Amarone, anyone?) that this married duo has created their unique but tradition-bound wines for the past 25 years. They insist on planting using the classic pergola veronese system for their oldest vines, believing that this keeps their roots healthy, fruit shielded from rain and hail, and bunches well-ventilated by the air, all essential steps that keep viable their non-intervention, biodynamic farming in the field. Juicy, light, and ripe, this one promises to keep you in good company on the coldest winter nights.
Davide Vignato “El Gian” Garganega
From fair Verona, (or a bit east of Verona) where we lay our scene (where we get our wine) comes young and ambitious winemaker Davide Vignato. His holdings in the village of Gambellara feature rows and rows of old-vine Garganega rooted in black-banded volcanic soils. As a result, a core of zesty minerality runs through his single-varietal bottling of the grape, fostering the creation of a lighter, brighter, more mouth-watering expression than the rounder and more honeyed wines of the most famous Garganega region, Soave. A third-generation farmer and winemaker on his small estate, Davide converted the family’s holdings to 100% organic and biodynamic farming starting in 1997. Farming the few hectares of his estate, which are again planted with traditional pergola-style vine training, requires a hands-on approach; literally. Hand-harvested and pruned vines with minimal cellar intervention allow the terroir of this unique region to shine through each bottle. His “El Gian” is a wonderful starting place to explore what this delightful little grape can offer up, with the right love and attention. Risotto, mackerel and couscous, shellfish, salads, roast chicken- this wine pairs with almost anything. Enjoy.
RAW CLUB
Our Raw Club selections this month echo the theme of Veneto superstars. We’re journeying halfway between Venice and Verona to the charming town of Vicenza to meet the stunning and precise wines of Daniele Portinari, then shooting just west down the road a half hour to see what the wizards of Padua have concocted. Love is never very far when you know where to look for it.
Daniele Portinari Garganega
Daniele Portinari has grape juice in his blood. Since he was a child he worked in his family’s vineyards among the unique volcanic soils in the hills of his home of Vicenzo, near Verona. He later went on to apprentice under Angiolino Maule, a legend in the area (and someone who’s wines we promise to re-stock just as soon as we can) before taking over the family farm and dedicating it entirely to biodynamic principles and non-intervention winemaking. Utilizing both traditional and international varietals, Daniele pays homage to his increasingly industrialized homeland and seeks to celebrate the soil, the people, the climate, and flavors of the Veneto. His Garganega is a precise and elegant expression of the grape, with a bit of skin contact allowing the full range of flavors to shine through. Powerful but balanced, this is a white wine to break out when you want to compliment a special dish without hitting it over the head. It’s also really incredible with fresh herbs, citrus, and fish. Time to work on your lobster bisque, I think.
Il Moralizzatore ‘Cabaret’ Cabernet Sauvignon
Down the road in Padua, two friends, Enrico Frisone and Andrea dalla Grana, neither one a winemaker but both with a ton of passion for their native landscape and a desire to create chemical-free wines in the region, started il Moralizzatore in 2011. With three hectares planted to both native and international varietals, they’ve been churning out bold and focused wines which pay homage to the region while appealing to a broader audience. Their 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is a true “Super-Veneto,” created through precise methods and large, neutral oak barrel ageing after careful hand-harvesting AND hand de-stemming from low-yielding of old vines. Time does the rest. Biodynamic, foothills-planted vines showcase the earthy minerality of the region and produce a memorable and authentic vintage. Expect the black currant, leafy characteristics of the grape to blend well with a core of iron and wet soil. Yes, order the ribeye from your local butcher. You’ll thank me when you’re drinking this with it.